Baby girl dress

This may actually be the first time I've ever made a garment for someone other than myself! A couple who I've known for a long time have just had a baby girl, so I decided it would be nice to make them something. I actually made them a baby quilt a few weeks ago, but then I remembered they were already given a homemade one when their older child was born, and also decided I didn't really like it - it was my first ever attempt at English paper piecing patchwork (Google it!) and it was more a project to learn new skills really. There's a photo at the end of this post, just so you can laugh at my poor choice of colour scheme!

So, I decided to make a babydoll dress, definitely the most fun and rewarding of baby gifts to make! The hardest part of the whole process was actually finding or designing a suitable pattern. I mean, I've never had a baby or really been around them, so I had no idea what size to make it! I managed to find a downloadable pattern available in different sizes, but there were no measurements written on it - normally not a problem, except my laptop has packed in so I'm unable to print! After much faffing, I came up with these basic pattern pieces:

However, I then decided I would prefer a gathered skirt, so I added a further 10cm to the skirt block width. I also wanted a buttoned opening at the back, so I should have added additional allowance on the back block, but I totally forgot and had to add a makeshift placket at the last minute. The rounded shoulder flaps on the back also turned into straight edges as these were much easier to sew and match on both sides easily.

Without further ado, here's the finished dress, front and back respectively:

Here are some of the detail shots. Please note this was my first EVER attempt at sewing a buttonhole by hand, and it didn't go too well!

So, despite the dodgy buttonholes, I think it looks pretty good and certainly better than the original gift methinks! Here's that pic I promised:

New project/s

Ok, so with the broderie anglaise dress finished, what's next??  I have a number of ideas floating around but I really want to focus on learning in areas where I have no experience, or am less confident.

Here are some areas I'd like to work on:

• Sewing stretch fabrics - I've not really worked with these and would like to learn about the challenges these fabrics pose, and how to deal with them.
• Drafting a pattern - I've attempted this before but found it very hard work. I think a simple pencil skirt pattern will help improve my confidence by going back to basics on this.
• Underwear - I'd really like to try making some knickers!
• Camisole - I'll be needing something to wear under the sheer blouse I made recently. 
• Zips - I really want to get zips 100% perfect so I need to do a bit of research on better methods and then practise, practise, practise!

I *could* make a pencil skirt from stretch fabric using a pattern I've drafted, and that would cover 3 out of 5! But I think stretch fabric plus self-drafted pattern equals potential sizing disaster! I might go for the pencil skirt using some stash fabric first, and see how I get on.

Crepe de Chine blouse - completed

Just wanted to share a photo of the completed blouse I posted about recently.

I'm pleased with it although I need to make a camisole to wear under it. Alternatively I can wear it with my new waistcoat:

Broderie anglaise dress #7 - completed

So, I have finalIy completed the broderie anglaise dress, but it was touch and go after I sabotaged myself by idiotically leaving the iron on too high a setting when pressing down the back lapels (I thought I was being so clever doing those!) and melted a hole right through the lining! Disaster.

The idea for this design on the back was inspired simply by the fact I only had a shorter zip in stock than 

the one required by the dress pattern (Simplicity 2444). Therefore it made sense to make a feature out of it and fold down the excess fabric. As I was fully lining it anyway, it made a nice bit of contrast detail on the back and I was pretty chuffed with it! Then I ruined it!!

Oh well. Here's how I got round it: instead of trying to replace that bit of lining,  as it's only for myself, I simply reverted to the original neckline and used a button and inserted a loop on one side, thus creating a nice cutaway effect at the top. I quite often see a little loop and button arrangement at the back of tops, and this is a similar principle. Here's how it came out:

And the front view:

As you can see, I've added a lace collar/trim around the neck to add interest. I'm not sure it's really my style, but I've got heaps of lace sitting around and was looking for an excuse to use some! This was hand-sewn on at the neck. By the way isn't it mad how different the fabric looks under a flash! In daylight it's somewhere in between but more petrol blue than sky blue.

Overall I'm not sure I'll be wearing this very often - it doesn't fit too great (I don't remember having that problem last time with the 2444 but from now on I will be measuring pattern pieces against my own measurements). I don't feel too pleased with the skirt and gathered waist either, I took a gamble and did my own thing rather than sticking to the pattern and it looks fine, just a little boxy when worn. Also the zip - the fabric is a little gathered on one side so I haven't done a great job there. But, I hate zips and they hate me back so I'm just glad it went in! Really must practise those more.

I'd say this was a good practise garment but not one of my favourites. I can see me taking the lace off, adding something at the waist and re-fitting the zip, at some point - but for now, I'm happy :)

Broderie anglaise dress (#7)

I had this lovely petrol blue broderie anglaise sitting around that my mum had sent to me (she also sent some matching in a khaki green) and decided it had to become a dress, but not a pencil dress this time. I picked up ol' trusty Simplicity 2444 which apparently everyone in the world has used at some point - it's a nice easy pattern and quick to construct.

It's still unfinished as I'm trying to do an interesting lapel-style detail on the back which I'll show you once the zip is in and it's all finished, however here's the progress so far (I've added the belt to give it a bit more interest):

I also don't intend to keep all the length, I'll probably remove about 6 inch once hemmed (you can just make out the line where I've had it pinned up to give me an idea). For the skirt I moved away from the pattern as I didn't like the pleating from the last time I used it, and just took a simple rectangle the widtg of the fabric (this was a 45" one) of the relevant length and gathered it at the waist. It's much more of a daytime look I think. I had a bit of bother with the top as it was too long and I forgot to shorten the bodice part of the pattern prior to cutting, so I had to remove about 1.5cm at the shoulders whicg has raised the neckline but I still think it's ok.

It's fully lined using a grey lining I happened to have already in stock, so again cost me nothing except the zil which I've yet to buy. I have some lace which might make a nice collar trim and I might add a couple of buttons at the centre top too.

Vintage fabric blouse

This fabric had everyone at my sewing class cooing over it, I don't know exactly how old this fabric is but my grandmother has had it at least since the war! My sewing tutor said it could easily be 30s/40s so I tried to take extra care when using it. Here's a photo of the blouse I made with it, during construction:

It's now almost complete, just the buttonholes on the sleeves to add so will post an updated photo when I get one. The fabric is a delicate, quite sheer crepe de Chine (I'd never heard of this until now!) so I had to work the entire thing using French seams which was a first for me, but which gave really pleasing results as the inside is just as neat as the outside. However I had a terrible time with the Peter Pan collar, the instructions on the pattern (New Look 6078) really weren't right, I wish I'd read up on patternreview.com before starting but you live and learn!

The final result is really lovely but it fits very snugly so I may need to let out the darts a touch and it's quite sheer so I will need some sort of camisole to wear underneath.

I got some buttons at 5p each at a local knitting store so again this make was virtually free! I'm on a roll!

Check ensemble

Here is the ensemble made from the same fabric I had left over from the dress I posted about previously:

I bought the pattern for the waistcoat (Simplicity 2556, a Project Runway one) but I already had the pencil skirt pattern (Simplicity 5259).

I used some buttons I already had and I also had a zip for the skirt and navy lining fabric in stock for the waistcoat back and lining for both, so again this cost virtually nothing!

This was the first time I'd done princess seams and with the fabric being a bit firmer than a plain cotton, at first I thought I'd made a terrible mistake when the front came out weirdly pointy (hello Madonna!) but all it needed was the curved seam to be clipped and a good pressing, and hey presto it fits wonderfully.

To complete the outfit I decided to make a blouse, and it just so happened that at the same time my grandmother had forwarded some incredible fabric which was perfect for this. Check out my next post!

Another year - 2014 and dress #6

Dear people of 2014,

So my 2013 sewing diary was non-existent, sorry about that. However 2014 is starting to look like it might be one of exciting sewing-related developments. Watch this space!

In the meantime I'll be sharing with you some of my more recent makes, starting with this dress which sat half finished for about 6 months before I finally fixed the terrible job I'd done on the zip and hemmed it, then added the bow and buckle. Really pleased with it now and have been wearing it to work.

I used Simplicity 3673 and the fabric is a lovely English navy check wool blend I was donated by a friend of my mum's, I had plenty left over to make a matching two-piece I'll share soon. The buckle waa a vintage find in an antique store that cost £2. Really the only other cost was the zip, so virtually free to make. Chuffed to bits with the final result, it fits like a dream!